Glossary, Medieval Clothing

This is a list of Medieval Clothing Terms for the writer’s reference only. If you wish to learn more or see a graphic of an item listed here, feel free to search for it in google images. For starters, here’s a sketch explaining several terms found below.

  • ALB: long white linen tunic which became an exclusively liturgical garment after 6th century.
  • AMIGAUT: slit at neck of garments for ease of donning. Also a decorative panel around armhole.
  • AMUSSE: simple headdress in the form of a flat hood falling to the shoulders.
  • BALDRICK: sword-belt, later an ammunition belt for soldiers, worn from shoulder to opposite hip,early times onward.
  • BARBETTE: band put under chin and fastened on the top of the head, worn by women, 12th-14th centuries.
  • BELUQUE: woman’s mantle – 15th century.
  • BLIAUT(D): 12th century dress of fine material, largely pleated, worn by men and women.
  • BRACCAE or BRAES: loose trousers ending below knees or at ankles, and tied there, Roman, early European.
  • BRANC: woman’s smock – 15th century
  • BRODEQUIN: light shoe worn inside boots and houseaux.
  • CABAN: first fitted coat with sleeves. 14th century.
  • CAMLET: camel-hair fabric – 12th century
  • CAMOCAS: silk cloth striped with gold and silver made in a castle in Palestine beginning in 12th century.
  • CAUL: jeweled net worn as women’s head-covering, 14th-15th centuries.
  • CHAINSE orĀ CAINSIL: long tunic of fine linen with long sleeves tightly fitted at the wrists; always white and usually pleated. Worn under bliaut(d).
  • CHAPERON: hat contrived from winding long ‘liripipe’ round cap, later made as complete headgear.
  • CHASUBLE: circular cape with aperture for head.
  • CHAUSSES: garment for covering leg and feet, originally held with criss-crossed thongs to the knee.
  • COAT OF ARMS: long tunic strengthened with metal rings worn from 11th century on.
  • COIF: close-fitting cap of white linen later embroidered or made in black.
  • COLOBIUM: blouse or sleeveless coat worn in ancient Gaul and throughout the middle ages. Abandon in later centuries for the dalmatic.
  • COPE: hooded cloak, sometimes with sleeves, worn for protection against rain.
  • CORNET: long point of a hood. In 15th century, also name for seperate woman’s hat, which covered skull and temples with point upstanding for comfort.
  • CORSET: in medieval times, two definitions: 1) long or short surcoat with or without sleeves worn by men in the 12th-15th centuries; 2) a woman’s furlined winter gown lacing in front, worn between 14th and 16th centuries.
  • COTE: tunic or gown
  • COTE-HARDIE: gown for men or women.
  • COTHURNES: high boot covering the whole foot and leg to the calf, worn by hunters.
  • COURTEPY: very short, hip belted tunic.
  • CULOT: short tight breeches worn duing reign of Henry III.
  • CYCLAS or GARDCORPS: outer gown, usually sleeveless, with side and front openings.
  • DAGGINGS: mainly German fashion, where hems and ends of bands are cut in various patterns, such as toothed or open-worked designs.
  • DOUBLET: quilted garment, stuffed with cotton or waste material, stitched and worn under a hauberk.
  • EPITOGA: wide, ungathered robe, belted and sometimes with sleeves, mainly worn by academics in 13th century.
  • ESCAFFIGNONS or ESCHAPINS: a small light shoe made from rich material.
  • FACINGS: edgings on garments made from fur or fine cloth, originating in 12th century.
  • FALSE SLEEVES: 14th century, unbuttoned lower part of sleeves which hang down, sometimes to ankle length.
  • FILLET: band tied round the head.
  • GAMBESON: padded garment worn under hauberk; also know as a gibbon, pourpoint or doublet.
  • GANACHE: loose outer garment
  • GIPON or GIPPON: a type of doublet made of padded, quilted material; in 14th century, same as a doublet.
  • GONELLE or GONNE: long tunic worn by knights.
  • GORGET: linen neck-covering
  • GORGIAS: gauze used in late 15th century to mask pronounced decollete of women’s dresses.
  • GUIMP: piece of light material used to cover face, neck and chest.
  • HAUBERK: military corselet of mail or leather
  • HEAD-RAIL: Saxon head covering for women
  • HELM: military headgear made of leather or metal.
  • HENNIN: cone-shaped or cylindrical headdress for women.
  • HERIGAUTE: similar to housse or garde-corps, open at sides and worn 13-14th centuries.
  • HEUZE or HOUSEAUX: tall leather thick-soled boots, sometimes open-toed, varying from half-leg to half-thigh height.
  • HOSE: knitted or cloth, a covering for the foot and part of the leg, later to become two-piece in 16th century.
  • HOUPPELAND: voluminous gown worn by men and women, late 14th century, most of 15th.
  • HUQUE: short outer flowing robe, open at sides; knight’s version had slit in front.
  • HUVE: headdress of 14-15th centuries with a tapered cornet held to head by long pins.
  • JACK: padded military jacket, up to 30 layers, worn over hauberk, and brightly decorated; not to be confused with doublet.
  • JOURNADE: very short, full, beltless tunic.
  • LIRIPIPE: long ‘tail’ descending from hood or chaperon
  • MAFORS: a long narrow over-the-shoulder veil worn by women up through the 11th century.
  • MANTLE: first appearing in 15th century, term for a cloak.
  • MARRAMAS: a cloth of gold, used mainly for ecclesiastical adornment in 14th century.
  • MITRE: gold circlet for the head first appearing in 7th century.
  • MORSE: fastening of cloak.
  • MOUFLES or MITONS: extension of sleeve which covers the hands.
  • NEBULAE HEADDRESS: narrow halo-shaped headdress of gauze
  • PARTI-COLOURED DRESS: divided vertically in half, a 12-14th century garment in two colours of cloth.
  • PELICAN: fur-lined garment worn between the chemise and cote during 12-15th centuries.
  • PHRYGIAN CAP: cap with bulging coxcomb peak in front, early European, 12th century.
  • PIGACHE: shoe with a long, upturned pointed toe – 12th century.
  • POINTS: metal-ended laces used to attach upper hose to doublet.
  • POULAINES: very long-toed shoes
  • POURPOINT: under-doublet
  • RAMSHORN HEADDRESS: cap with coiled earpieces, 13th century.
  • ROBE DEGUISEE: garments reserved for most elegant wear, usually new and in daring fashion.
  • ROBE GIRONNEE : loose pleated dress fixed at waist.
  • RONDEL: crescent-shaped, circular or halo shaped headdress.
  • ROWEL: round of cloth worn by Jews (compulsory): yellow in 13th century, then red and white in 14th.
  • SABLE: rarest and most sought-after fur used for adornment.
  • SAMITE: rich silk cloth, unmade after Middle Ages.
  • SCARF: originally an over-shoulder satchel, became strip of cloth worn from shoulder to hip and tied at waist in 14th century.
  • SIDELESS GOWN: woman’s gown open at the sides to the hips, 14th-15th century.
  • SIGLATON: gold brocade made in Lucca in 14th century used for luxurious garments.
  • SKULL CAP : small round cap covering top of head; some had small points and tails. 12th-15th centuries.
  • SLIPPERS: in 12th century, footwear which covered foot only to instep.
  • SNOOD: simple net used to cover headgear. Adornments such as pearls and jewels added in 15th century.
  • STIVALI: summer light boots close fitting to the leg and usually in black, but sometimes red.
  • SURCOTE: outer garment which replace the bliaut(d) during 12th century.
  • TABARD: sleeveless outer garment with open side-seams worn by men usually in tourneys, and always worn by heralds.
  • TEMPLET: metal ornament around which women’s hair was coiled and rolled above the ears – 15th century.
  • TIPPET: white linen bands with strip hanging down worn tied on above elbows, 14th century
  • TOURET: woman’s veil covering forehead – 13th-15th centuries.
  • TRESSOIR: golden plait of silk embroidered with metal and gems worn by 13th century women.
  • WIMPLE: women’s head and neck covering, 12-15th centuries